" When you obtain a goldfish as a pet, you are obtaining a responsive and intelligent (for a fish, anyway) creature that you can expect will live as long as a dog or cat would. Based on this, the goldfish keeper is a collector of individual fish rather than a collector of indistinguishable schools of interchangeable specimens."

- SniperY

Just because a fish can survive in an environment, doesnt mean that the environment is a suitable home for it. You want to provide a permanent home for a pet, not a display case for an aquatic ornament.

The first consideration before you buy anything should be how many fish you want to keep, and how big you can expect those fish to get. This will determine how large a tank you need.

Goldfish Bowls

Most people assume that goldfish can be kept just fine in bowls. Technically this is true, because goldfish are hardy coldwater fish, and can live in environments that would kill tropical fish. In fact, in China they were traditionally kept in bowls.

The traditional Chinese version of a fish bowl. Many of these basins were elaborately carved from solid pieces of stone.But bowls are not the optimal environment for goldfish. Ironically, people assume they require less upkeep than a tank. But really the opposite is true. Bowls will require a lot more hands-on maintenance than a tank and may end up being just as (or more) expensive.

Keeping goldfish in bowls requires frequent water changes. And the smaller water volume means that ammonia and oxygen can be a much more immediate concern than with a tank. Assume that you will need to do a 50% water change every day or every other day.

So bowls are only desirable from an ornamental point of view. And a lot of people buy them specifically for this purpose. But they are not really appropriate for beginners. If you are just starting out, start with a small (10 gallon) tank setup first.

Water oxygenation and ammonia build up are the main concerns. It is a good idea not to keep more than one fish unless it is a very large bowl. 3 Gallons water volume per inch of fish (not including fins) is realistic. Here are the issues facing you if you decide to go with a bowl set up:

Bowls

Traditionally in China, Goldfish were kept in bowls like this The larger the bowl, the better, for obvious reasons. Assume a minimum size of about 12" in diameter, and then only for small fish. You probably should not even consider a bowl that holds less than 3 gallons where goldfish are concerned (which means that only the largest bowls sold in most pet stores are acceptable). Smaller bowls are really only appropriate for fish with small demands (like Bettas, or maybe Guppies). Large fish bowls will get progressively more expensive, sometimes more expensive than a similar sized aquarium.

Bowls do not have to be traditional spherical types; large vases will work just fine as well. And not all bowls are made of glass. Pictured above is an example of a traditional Chinese bowl...these function more like miniature ponds than as fish tanks. If you get a non-glass bowl make sure whatever it is made of will not alter the chemisty of the water. Ceramic bowls would be acceptable, but metal bowls would not.

Another example of a Chinese style Fish Bowl. This one is about 12" Tall. If you go with a vase, make sure the surface area at the waterline is sufficient for the fish you will keep in the bowl. The surface area will be much smaller at the neck of the vase than below it.

The surface area is just as important as the water volume, maybe moreso. A bowl with a large water volume, but small surface area, is still inadequet. A vase with a large water volume, but a surface area equal to a small bowl, should be treated as a small bowl as far as how many fish it will hold. The surface area is what determines how well the water can maintain it's oxygen.

Filter Systems

You can buy filters specially designed for bowls at most major pet stores now. This is certainly better than nothing, but not nearly as effective as what you can get with a full aquarium set up. A filter system in a bowl is meant to augment your water changes, not replace them. A very well filtered and oxygenated bowl can tolerate as few as two water changes a week.

This vase has a large water volume but small surface area. Reducing the water level by just an inch or two would greatly increase the surface area. Filter systems take the form of a mini-sponge/undergravel filter that fits under the gravel at the bottom. It will develop it's own biological filter over time...a miniature version of a tank environment. Filters should be placed under the gravel for this reason. They do sell nano-power filters for goldfish bowl-sized environments now, but they dont fit a bowl's formfactor. So the undergravel variety is really the only option.

You can have a bowl environment for a fish without a filter, but it is not a good idea unless you really know what you're doing. The small water volume means there is really very little room for error. And if the water does become toxic, the fish will die quickly. So an unfiltered bowl will need to be changed every day (partial) or every other day (complete).

Live plants can be grown in bowls. They will help filter waste products, remove ammonia and nitrates, and oxygenate the water. But frequent (at least weekly) water changes will always be required for bowls, no matter what filtering system you use.

Live plants and daily water changes (which is the way goldfish were traditionally kept in China) are acceptable in place of filters, but active filtration is always ideal.

A 16 gallon Bio-Orb Aquarium is a good all-in-one solution for a bowl-shaped aquarium Gravel

1 inch or more on the bottom is appropriate. Assume that you will need to clean it once a week or more. You can use the same type of gravel you would use in an actual aquarium.

Lights

Some pet stores sell small LED lights that can be attached to the edge of the bowl, or placed above it. LED lights should add no heat to the water. Be very careful that your lighting does not heat the water beyond what the goldfish can tolerate.

Oxygenation

If the fish is gulping for air, thats a really bad sign. You need to do a water change immediately, and find a way to oxygenate the water in the future. You can buy tablets at some pet stores that will dissolve in the water and provide more oxygen. They arent as good the surface agitation of a filter or water changes, but are better than nothing. These should be used as a temporary solution at best.

A long term solution is surface agitation. This is done via a pump and airstone (just like you would use in an aquarium), some kind of power filter, or both. Agitating the surface will increase gas exchange in the water, thereby oxygenating it.

Heater

This vase has a large water volume but small surface area. Reducing the water level by just an inch or two would greatly increase the surface area. Heaters are a bad idea for bowls. Cold water holds more oxygen, and oxygen is at a premium in a bowl environment. In addition, it is very very easy to overheat smaller bowls. Skip the heater and leave the bowl at room temperature or cooler. Never leave a glass fishbowl in direct sunlight. If the water temperature rises over 90 degress, it may kill your fish.

Full Featured Fish Bowls

There are several companies that manufacture fish bowls that are completely self-contained. The best known is the one from Bio Orb.

In reality, these are not fish bowls at all, but are basically full tank set ups that are shaped to look like fish bowls. They come with embedded lights and filtering systems and heaters...everything you would need for a tank. You can treat these as you would any other true aquarium set up. They come in sizes of 4, 8 or 16 gallons. Most major pet store chains carry them.

In conclusion, if you must have a fish bowl, make sure you know what you're getting into. If cost is an issue, you will probably be better off with a 10 gallon aquarium setup anyway. Back to Top

Choosing A Tank

The first thing you need to choose is what type of tank you want. The three main choices are Plexiglass, Glass, and Plastic.

Plastic "tanks" are only practical in very small sizes, and are usually sold as part of cheap kits to children. So they are not really an option for Exotic Goldfish. So we will only deal with Acrylic (Plexiglass) and Glass tanks. I would not recommend using plastic bowls or tanks to hold goldfish.

An example of a 29 gallon glass aquarium with wood stand - wood stands are more expensive than wrought iron stands Size

Size is a matter of preference, space, and how much you want to spend. The best price/size ratio is at about 10 gallons. Any more or less than that and you will be paying more per gallon for the tank and peripherals. Tanks under 10 gallons are sold as novelties, but they are not typically cheaper than a 10 gallon aquarium. They share a lot of the same limitations as fish bowls, but are a better environment for fish than bowls.

How many fish do you want?

In general, where tanks are concerned, bigger is better. The bigger the environment, the less volitile it will be with regards to water quality, temperature, and maintenance. A larger tank requires less regular maintenance than a smaller tank.

The general rule for tropical aquariums is 1" of fish body length (not counting fins) per gallon of water. So a 10 gallon tank could reliably support ten 1" fish, or five 2" fish for example.

Since goldfish require more resources than most tropical fish (and produce more waste), this formula needs to be doubled. So a 10 gallon tank can reliably support five 1" goldfish, or two 2.5" goldish.

A large Vase-type bowl. Live plants will enhance a bowl visually, and will also help remove waste products. The general consensus seems to be that it is better to keep fewer fish in the tank than to rely on mechanical (or chemical) augmentation to oxygenate the water. If your building loses power (for example) you want your fish to be able to beathe without relying on external devices.

Many people are skeptical about the limitations on tank size for Goldfish because they go to pet stores and see 20 fish crammed into a 10 gallon water volume. What they dont realize is that the actual water volume is a lot more than 10 gallons. A typical PetSmart chain store (for example) circulates water through all of their tanks from a central 3000 gallon tank...a common reservoir that is circulated through all of their display tanks. Unless you are doing the same in your home aquarium (unlikely), you need to restrict the number of fish according to the size tank you have.

Overview of the differences between Glass and Acrylic (Plexiglass):

Cost - Though the cost of plexiglass has gone down in recent years, glass tanks remain significantly cheaper. Used plexiglass tanks are a cost-effective option if you can find them though. But a ten gallon glass aquarium can be bought for as little as $10 at some chain stores.

Weight - Glass is heavy. If weight is an issue for you, Plexiglass will always be lighter for the same volume tank. Glass can weigh 4 to 10 times as much as an acrylic tank of the same size.

Duribility - Glass is stronger than plexiglass, but also a lot more brittle. Aquarium glass sold in stores these days is plated or tempered, and very difficult to shatter. Though glass doesnt shatter easily, plexiglass is a lot more durable. For large tanks (200 gallons or more) the difference becomes much more noticable.

Also, plexiglass doesnt have vertical seams. Plexiglass tanks are composed of a single sheet that makes up all four "walls"...this single piece is then "welded" to the bottom piece.

Glass aquariums are made of panes of glass that are "glued" together with silicone. The silicone is actually quite strong and is a reliable water tight adhesive. The silicone will weaken over time (meaning many years) however, and will eventually leak. But silicone can be stripped off and re-applied (tubes of it are sold at most aquarium stores).

Glass is much harder than acrylic, so it is very difficult to scratch. Really the only thing that can scratch glass at all is maybe the rocks or gravel. But if you do manage to scratch it, the scratch is virtually impossible to remove. Plexiglass scratches easily, but the scratches can be buffed out. This process is by no means trivial, but it much easier than with glass.

Glass tanks only need to be supported at the edges, which is why most aquarium stands do not have a "top" (the part of the stand that would be under the aquarium bottom), but just edges. This is because glass is denser than plexiglass, so can support the weight at the edges of the bottom pane.

Plexiglass tanks need to be supported under the entire bottom, or else the middle will pull away from the sides. For this reason most Plexiglass tanks are built with thicker bottoms to better handle the stress, but they should still be supported along the entire bottom surface. On small tanks (10 gallons or less), this difference may be so trivial that it can be ignored. The larger the tank, the more of an issue this will be.

A note on Aquarium Stands - Remember also that water is heavy. Here is a table with rough estimates for each volume of water:

These weights are just for the water...glass and rock are heavier than water.

Make sure that whatever you are using to support the tank can support these weights. A glass 10 gallon aquarium weighs over 110 lbs once it is set up. A 55 gallon aquarium with water can weigh over 600 lbs. Although some of them dont look terribly sturdy, aquarium stands are specifically designed to hold the weight of the tanks they fit. That may not be true of your coffee table or desk. When in doubt, buy a stand.

View - Most glass aquariums sold nowadays use optically clear glass. But the best glass will never be as clear as acrylic. A major advantage of plexiglass is that it provides such a good, clear view. Also, as mentioned above, acrylic tanks are seamless vertically. So while there may be some distortion, you can "see" through tank corners.

But Acrylic changes chemically over time and with exposure to light (especially sunlight). So acrylic tanks will yellow as they age (this process takes a long time though...your tank wont be yellow in 5 years). Glass does not suffer this effect...the glass of your tank (assuming it is kept clean) will remain just as clear in 20 years as it is now.

In general most people seem to prefer acrylic because it looks better, but glass tanks are the norm because they are so much cheaper. There is no clear winner between the two. It all comes down to personal preference.

Back to Top

Water Filtration

You need to have some kind of active filtration in your tank. Without it, you will be doing water changes every day, which is impractical for most people.

An undergravel filter draws water through the gravel itself, using it as a filter to trap debris floating in the water There are five basic types of filtration; Undergravel filters (the most common), Power filters, Sponge filters, Chemical filters, and your Biological filter. Everything else is a variation or a combination of these. Though any brand will probably do the job, the best mainstream brand names are Whisper and Penguin.

Undergravel Filter

This is the most common type of filtration system in aquariums. It consists of a plastic plate with slits in it which sits on top of the glass but under the gravel in your tank. One or more tubes rise from this plate in the back of the tank, up through the gravel to the surface.

A pump is connected to a smaller tube that is inserted into the bigger one, all the way to the bottom. Air is pumped through this smaller tube. As the bubbles rise, they carry water with them. This creates a vaccum under the plate, which in turn creates a gentle downward current in your entire tank (sucking water down through the gravel, and spitting it out of the tube in the back). The idea is to pull debris out of the water and into the gravel, where it gets caught. This debris can then be removed by vaccuming with a water vac occasionally, or it can be eaten by snails or plants as it decomposes (Plecos will also eat fallen debris). The bacteria that make up your biological filter will colonize your gravel because there is a constant flow of water through it.

The water is pulled up through the tube by the bubbles and both water and bubbles are expelled through a carbon filter at the top. The bubbles will agitate the surface water and expedite gas exchange as well (including oxygenation).

Important: Most undergravel filters do NOT include the actual carbon filters. These are cartridges you need to buy separately. Carbon cartidges are disposable, and need to be replaced every few months to be effective.

There is debate within the aquarium community as to whether undergravel filters are necessary at all. If you have a power filter that is rated 50% or more beyond what is needed for your tank, you can probably get away with not having an undergravel filter. If you plan on aquascaping (or using any fine substrate, like sand or soil), an undergravel filter isnt really an option (live plants rooted in the substrate dont like undergravel filters anyway, because it pulls water over their roots).

Most people do not use them alone, but in conjunction with power filters.

An example of a power head - This version uses a sponge filter. Power Heads

Power Heads dont function as filters in and of themselves. They are a more expensive alternative to the standard air pump, and perform the exact same function as pumps.

You place them on top of the tubes of your undergravel filter (at or below the water line...they are submersible), and they create suction which powers the vaccum under the plate. The water is mixed with air from the surface, and blown back into the aquarium. They provide a current, agistate the water surface, and provide suction for the undergravel filter all at once.

The gas exchange it produces (including oxygenation of the water) is superior to a pump, but it does not have a carbon filter. In addition, Power Heads are inappropriate for small (20 gallon or less) goldfish tanks since most exotic goldfish are not great swimmers and Power Heads create strong currents in the water that annoy and stress the fish. Power Heads are typically used in larger aquariums and environments where oxygenation is more important, especially saltwater tanks (since salt water has only 1/5 the oxygen of freshwater).

Power Heads are not filters in and of themselves. They function with other filtering devices. They are typically used with undergravel filters, but can also be used equipped with a simple sponge filter, as shown in the image above.

Small Penguin Power Filter.
The Bio-wheel is just under the front cover on the left side. Power Filters

These are external filters that hang on the back of your tank (frequently referred to as HOBs - or "Hang on Back" - for short).

They pump water out of your aquarium and pass it through a removable filter pad, then dump it back in to your tank. They are typically rated according to how much water they can process in an hour (GPH or "Gallons Per Hour"). More likely you will see them rated according to what sized tank they are capable of supporting. A "power filter 15" is capable of supporting a tank 15 gallons or less.

Regardless of how it is measured, all power filters will tell you on the box what tank sizes they are rated for.

While a power filter rated for your tank size is adequet, it is a good idea to overestimate your tank by 50% when buying a power filter (especially with goldfish, which are messier than tropical fish). So if you have a 15 gallon tank, get a power filter rated for a 25 gallon or larger tank if possible. It is not absolutely necessary, but it will keep your tank a lot cleaner and cut down on the routine maintenance you do every month.

Power filters use replacable pads (the actual filter part of the device). You should normally replace these once every month or two as they will get clogged with debris and stop working. Be aware that when you throw them out however, you are also throwing out a portion of your biological filter (the benign bacteria that live in your tank) .They will recover, but it could take a couple weeks.

A good way to circumvent this inconvenience is by providing a media inside the filter itself that the bacteria can grow on but that will not be replaced with the filter pad itself. There are many types of media available for this, and most power filters sold nowadays actually include their own permanent biological media for this purpose. The bio-wheel is one example.

Some filters will use bio-wheels, developed by Marineland. These are pourous "wheels" that house the bacteria that make up your biological filter. They intercept water after it has passed through your primary filter (the pad). They provide a permanent home for your bacteria colony, are well oxygenated because they constantly turn (keeping the bacteria flourishing), and are not intended to be changed (although replacement wheels are available).

The bio-wheel is in addition to the normal filter in the unit. Water is filtered normally through the first (pad) filter, and then passes through the bio-wheel on its way out of the unit. Although the primary purpose of the bio-wheel is to cultuvate benign bacteria, it also has a nice side effect of oxygenating the water as well. While there have been issues with the wheel's "sticking" in place, the general consensus seems to be that these are the best media for the biological filter to live in when it comes to power filters.

Example of a typical Sponge Filter. The shape of the actual Sponge can vary greatly, but they all work the same way. Chemical Filtration

This term is used to describe using chemicals to alter the water. Zeolite is used to remove ammonia for example. Other chemicals can alter the pH of the water. For goldfish, it is probably better to stay away from chemicals unless it is an emergency and you have no choice.

Canister filters

Canister filters are high end. These are completely self contained tanks that sit outside your aquarium. They will suck water out of your tank, thoroughly filter it, and dump it back in.

Canister systems are expensive, and typically only used in saltwater aquariums.

Sponge filters

Sponge filters are the simplest kind of filtration device. It is just a normal (aquarium safe) sponge that has water continuously drawn through it. They work the same way an undergravel filter does, only in miniature. Bubbles going up the tube provide suction, which pills water in through the sponge.

The sponge will trap debris floating in the tank, but more importantly, it will provide a home for the benign bacteria that make up your Biological Filter. For this reason, they are sometimes used in addition to other forms of powered filtration. But sponge filters are useful in the absence of other forms of active filtration, and are sometimes used in aquariums where the fish are very small and/or sensitive to strong currents (breeding tanks for example).

If you clean off sponge filters, be sure to use dechlorinated water. Chlorine will kill the bacteria colonies living in the sponge.

Example of a Fluidized Bed filter Fluidized Beds

These are a variation on the undergravel filter. They are flat tubes full of sand that hang on the outside of the tank like a power filter. Water is drawn from the tank, passed through the sand, and pumped back into the aquarium. The sand provides a massive surface area for the benign bacteria in your tank to grow, and acts like a biological filter on stereoids.

This type of filter is relatively new and is becoming more popular. These are not intended to remove particulate matter from the tank, so you'll still need a power filter or sponge filter. And they are not cheap.

Trickle (Wet-Dry) Filters

These function similar to fluidized beds (above). A tank sits outside the aquarium and below it. Gravity sucks water out of the Aquarium where it trickles down through several layers of filters, massively oxygenating the water and providing a large home for the benign bacteria to grow in. The key is that they are separated from the aquarium environment, and the bio-media is not submerged. This is what allows for the massive oxygenation that makes them so effective. A pump in the bottom pushes the water back into the aquarium once it has passed through the filters.

Trickle filters will allow aquariums to support far more fish mass than they otherwise would be able to support. They are typically used in salt aquariums, and then only large ones. They are expensive. Back to Top

Aquarium Gravel & Rocks

"Substrate" is the word used for any materal that lines the bottom of your tank in place of soil. There are several types of substrate used in aquariums. They include Gravel, Sand, Soil, crushed coral, and Peat. Gravel is the most common substrate used in freshwater aquariums.

Substrate is not absolutely required in a fish tank. You may notice that pictures of fish you see online (especially from breeders) typically feature bare tanks. Bare tanks are far easier to maintain, since debris can be easily removed. But substrate is asthetically pleasing and is necessary if you plan to use an undergravel filter. However with frequent water changes and a good power filter, it is not absolutely necessary.

Typical epoxy-coated
Aquarium gravel Gravel

Gravel is the most popular substrate, because it is easy to clean, can be terraced, and is cheap. Most colored aquarium gravel is made up of small rocks that have been covered in an aquarium-safe epoxy. It comes in many different colors and can be mixed and matched to taste. But natural looking un-coated gravel is available at pet stores as well.

Sand

Sand is another common substrate. While it looks better in many ways, there are some issues you should be aware of. It can be messy (especially in the beginning, before the air pockets have been worked out of it). It can ruin power filters (the sand grains get into the mechanical parts and clog them), and it does not terrace well (sand tends to want to settle into a uniform carpet on the bottom). Sand cannot be used with an undergravel filter, because the particles are so small that will fall into the slits of the filter plate and clog it up. It comes in many colors, but mostly natural colors (tan, black, white, ect..). Artificially colored sand is available as well. Sand will not usually alter water chemistry.

Crushed Coral and Crushed Marble

While these two substrates are appealing for the same reason sand is appealing, they have a lot of the same problems as sand as well.

Because aquarium gravel is sealed in an epoxy coating, it doesnt alter your water chemistry. But "raw" types of substrate (such as crushed coral and marble) usually will. Both coral and marble contain calcium, and will dissolve in your tank over time increasing it's pH. This may be desirable if you live in an area with very soft (acidic) water. But it is something you need to be aware of either way.

Peat and Soil

These substrates are used for aquascaping...basically they allow you to make an underwater garden. They absorb waste products just like real soil does (and therefore act as fertilizer to plants that are embedded in them), so they dont need to be vacuumed. Some types of soil can be dangerous to your fish, so be sure to educate yourself well on aquascaping before using these substrates.

In general, until you know what you're doing, it is safest to use standard epoxy-coated aquarium gravel.

Typically, you need a minimum of 1/2 pound of gravel per gallon of water volume the tank can hold. There should be at least an inch of gravel covering the bottom. This is a minimum need for an undergravel filter to function. You can use more for asthetic reasons (such as terracing), but keep in mind it displaces water volume (and therefore the oxygen in that water) and is heavier than water.

Rocks

You do not have to buy rocks from a pet store. Rocks bought from landscaping stores will work just fine. Although most dried rocks are most likely sterile, it is probably a good idea to boil any rocks you plan on putting into the tank, just to make sure. As with substrate, you need to make sure the rocks you are using will not alter you water chemistry. Below are a few of the most common types:

Example of Pumice Pumice

Also known as "volcanic rock". Chemically inert...it will not affect the pH of your tank. It is beneficial in the sense that it will help cultvate your biological filter by providing a home for benign bacteria. This rock tends to have sharp edges...dont use with with delicate breeds like Bubble Eyes or Celestials. You can embed aquatic plants (like the Java Fern) into it which can mitigate it's sharp edges.

Igneous Rocks

These include Obsidian, Granite and Gneiss. They are also chemically inert. Obsidian tends to have very sharp edges, so use with caution. Goldfish tend to bump into stuff a lot, so anything with sharp edges is bad.

Petrified Wood

This rock is basically a tree fossil. Petrified wood is usually made up of silicate, like quartz. It is stable and should be aquarium safe.

Sandstone

May have a muddy smell to it, but is also stable. Sandstone is a sedementary rock.

Rocks to avoid

Any soft rock, including Iron Pyrite. Anything that you can scratch with your fingernail. Avoid anything with calcium or magnesium (such as Limestone) because it will dissolve. Marble is similar to linestone, and will raise the pH of your tank.

General rule is this; If you dont know for sure what kind of rock it is, dont put it in your tank.

Wood, Glass, and Other Ornaments

The same rules apply to other ornaments as well. Most plastic ornaments sold in pet shops are aquarium safe, but never assume that a plastic object will be fine in your aquarium. Glass objects should not alter water chemistry at all, so long as they are not painted with anything (meaning you cant have mirrors in aquariums unless they are completely sealed...mirrors use reflective materials on the back that will dissolve in water and are toxic to your fish). Colored glass beads are often sold in pet stores, but these are perfectly safe.

Most driftwood sold in petstores is aquarium safe (including driftwood sold for reptiles), but be warned, it is more boyant than it looks. It wont do you any good floating at the top of your tank. Make sure it has been weighted so that it will stay sunk. Over time, it will eventually become saturated with water and sink on it's own, but this can take weeks. I have had fungus issues with driftwood as well, but fortunately snails seem to love to eat it. Back to Top

Live Plants

Living plants do more than simply provide asthetic appeal...they help to filter your tank's water just like your aquarium's biological filter does. They will feed on Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates and (unlike the bacteria in your biological filter) completely remove them from the tank...when you prune them, you are (in essence) removing the waste they consumed completely from the aquarium.

Like all plants they also feed on CO2, and will oxygenate the water as well. Living plants are less likely than plastic plants to injure delicate goldfish breeds like Bubble Eyes.

Example of a Java Fern There are some downsides as well though. Plants require upkeep. Rotting leaves and roots will pollute your tank quickly, so remove them as soon as possible. Goldfish have a tendency to try to eat and bulldoze plants, so make sure their roots are inaccessible and they are secured to object the fish cant move. Many plants (including all the plants listed here) will grow fast enough to compensate for any grazing done by your goldfish (goldfish are omnivores after all, and will readily eat plants if they can).

Most plants can be embedded in tank objects, like driftwood or rocks, but will grow in tank gravel or other substrate. Most aquatic plants do not need to be rooted in any substrate to grow...they will grow just fine floating free in the water. They can also be bought in miniature pots. Fishing line can be used to secure plants to tank objects.

The following plants are most likely to survive in a goldfish tank:

Java Fern

Very hardy, and does not require a lot of light (in fact, too much light can damage it). Goldfish dont seem to like the taste of it very much. It can tolerate salt water up to brackish levels, and can survive temperatures to almost freezing. So it will live anywhere goldfish can live. Do not bury the roots, as they need access to the main water volume. They reproduce via buds on the older leaves, which can then be attached to new objects to grow as a separate plant. They take several months to get established, but will grow at a fair pace after that. Java ferns seem to be popular with goldfish tanks because they are lush but hard to kill.

Example of Java Moss Java Moss

Like Java Ferns, it tastes bitter, so Goldfish wont eat it. But it is more fragile and easily torn up (which means floating pieces could clog your filter). Breeders use this because it can get fairly dense and goldfish like to spawn in it. It can tolerate the same temperature and salt extremes as Java Ferns. It reproduces by root division (break off parts of the plant that have roots, and you have a new plant). Java moss grows rather chaotically however, and needs to be secured to something else (fishing line works well) to hold a shape or form.

Example of a Hornwort Hornwort

Hornwort is probably the best plant for goldfish. It grows very fast...fast enough to keep pace with Goldfish grazing. It has a dense fluffy appearance with new shoots, which spread out into an evergreen-like appearance as they get older. When healthy, it has a lush green appearance.

It can be planted in gravel or allowed to float free, though it doesnt produce roots (which means goldfish will eventually bulldoze it out of the gravel). It aggressively consumes nitrates and ammonia. Prefers lower temperatures and isnt as tolerant of salt as Java Ferns. Hornwort produces dense foliage. This makes it a good plant for spawning since it allows fry places to hide. It reproduces by way of cutting; pieces that are severed from the main plant will continue growing as new plants. It does not require a lot of light, but can tolerate bright light.

Be warned, Hornwort can be messier than other types of plants. The tiny fronds get dislodged and can cloud the tank, especially if they are decaying. A dead hornwort plant can be quite a mess. It's only a real problem when moving them or putting them in the tank the first time.

Example of an Amazon Sword Amazon Sword

This is a large plant used for background foliage. There are several species that are referred to under this name. It has roots and must be planted in a substrate (like gravel). Since goldfish will probably dig it up, it is best to buy it potted. It requires medium or bright light (stronger light will stimulate it to grow faster). It reproduces by sending out runners. This plant may require additional fertilizer to be added to the tank periodically (which you can get from any pet store).

Example of a type of Crypt Cryptocoryne (aka "Crypts")

This covers a group of plants with leaves varying from olive green to red. They require moderate to bright light (amount of light will affect the color). They grow in dense clumps, and reproduce via runners off the main plant. This plant requires a substrate like gravel but should probably be potted in a goldfish tank. They have temperature extremes similar to Amazon Swords. They can also tolerate the same degree of salt as goldfish.

Plants set in gravel will almost certainly be uprooted by goldfish, so it is usually a good idea to embed them in tank objects or in pots. Most aquatic plants can be re-planted after being dislodged with no harm done.

Live plants can be bought at most plant stores. Big chains like Petsmart have very broad selections. This is only a sampling of the most robust plants appropriate for a goldfish aquarium, but you can find more here and here.

Be aware that you may need to buy fertilizer to supplement the nutrients that plants require. This is especially true if you have a new tank setup, and havnt had fish in it yet. Plants need iron to creat chlorophil (for example). Fertilizers should not affect your water pH, anitrate/nitrite/ammonia levels, or affect the fish in your tank if used as directed on the bottle.

CO² Injection

Living plants generate oxygen as a waste product, which is great for your fish, but not so great for plants themselves. Plants can also consume so much Carbon Dioxide in the tank that they can starve themselves. If you have a lot of plants in your tank, you may eventually need to supplement their CO². This is called "CO² injection". The most common method is via tablets that can be dropped in your aquarium and will dissolve. More advanced hobbyists use active injection systems with refillable compressed gas cylinders.

CO² injection should not be undertaken lightly, as it is very easy to kill your fish by altering the gas balance of your tank too much. But a well maintained planted tank is gorgeous, and for a lot of people, well worth the extra effort.

A well Aquascaped planted tank can be very striking, as well as providing a fantastic environment for your fish Planted Tanks and Aquascaping

While you can keep plants in just about any aquarium, the term "planted tank" referrs specifically to a tank with a permanent landscape. "Aquascaping" is used to describe the art of creating and maintaining a planned and permanent planted tank. It is sort of like Bonsai for the aquarium.

Aquascaping is complex enough to require an entire website all it's own (I've included several links to aquascaping sites in the sidebar of this page). Aquascaped tanks use actual soil (or soil-like) substrate just like a real riverbed. As such, they dont use undergravel filters, and the soil is never "vacuumed" like you would with common aquarium gravel. Plant and animal waste decomposes in the soil, and is absorbed by the plants like fertilizer. So there is never anything to clean out. Back to Top

Inital Tank Setup

1. Clean the aquarium with warm water and aquarium salt. Do not use table salt. Do not use soap. Rinse thoroughly to remove any salt.

2. Place undergravel filter if you are using one. Make sure all ports that dont have a tube in them are covered...you dont want gravel getting under the plate in an undergravel filter. You do not need to add the carbon filters at this time (the undergravel filter will work without it) but carbon filters will be very useful at this stage, clearing out the fine particulate matter in the water (that the undergravel filters and power filters can reach) and making it much more clear.

Connect and set up power heads and/or external pumps, but dont turn them on yet.

3. Place substrate in the tank. It should be rinsed thoroughly before being placed into the tank. If you are using a fine substrate (like sand) you may want to soak it for a few days before putting it into the tank...it will save you a lot of time getting air bubbles out of it later one. Obviously you dont want to use a substrate other than gravel if you are using an undergravel filter.

4. Add thermometer (and any other gauges) if you have not already done so.

5. Add water at 50-72 degrees. Cold tap water usually fits within this range. If the water feels warm to the touch, it is probably too hot. It should feel cool but not freezing cold. Temperature can be adjusted later by adding cold or hot water. Make sure your thermometer reads the desired temperature range before set up is complete.

6. Add water conditioner (also known as Dechlorinator) to remove chlorine and heavy metals. It should work instantly. All pet stores and many grocery stores carry this. Follow the directions on the box. When in doubt, use more rather than less. Water conditioner is cheap (between $1 and $5) and lasts a long time.

7. Set up and start filters. Start power heads and/or pumps. Power heads need to be submerged to work. If you are using a power filter, it needs to have water in it (and the intake tube opening needs to be submerged) in order for it to create the suction it needs to work.

Add heater if necessary. Submersible heaters must be COMPLETELY submerged. Do not turn on a submersible heater unless it is compeltely covered by water.

Add live plants (and aquarium fertilizer) if you want. Now is also a good time to arrange any ornaments the way you want them as well. Live plants (like fish) carry the same benign bacteria that makes up your billogical filter. Adding live plants will jump start this process.

8. Let it run for 24 hours. Set up aquarium at least 1 day before purchasing fish. This will filter out any debris in the water and allow the temperature to stabalize.

9. After the aquarium has run empty for at least 24 hours, add fish.

10. You can now begin adding aquarium salt if desired. Add in 1/4 incriments (typically 1 or 1.5 teaspoons) every other day. Do NOT use iodized table salt. Only Aquarium salt. The salt should be fully dissolved in water before being added to the tank. Adding undissolved salt to the tank may chemically burn your fish.

Cloudy water may occur within the first week. This is normal. Most tap water is slightly cloudy. Carbon filters will screen out much of this and make the water more clear. Back to Top

Inital Maintenance

Perform partial water changes every other day for the first week or two. This should not affect your bacteria cycle significantly. Until the biological filter is established, there will be ammonia spikes. The only way to remove the ammonia at this point is by a water change.

Replace 20% of the water volume. Remember to use water conditioner on all new water, and try to keep it at a similar temperature.

The biological filter should be reasonably established within a week...it can take 4 to 6 weeks for it to become fully established however. But after the aquarium is fully established, water changes can be reduced to a few times a month.

Back to Top